Sunday, April 17, 2005

Of Falls and Forests

Writers are taught to shun hyperbole, clichés and worn-out aphorisms. Our current language usage has rendered impotent some important superlatives, like “awesome” and “amazing”. Too bad because Iguassu Falls is awesome and amazing. The outer limits of my writing talent are unfortunately revealing themselves today as I struggle for fresh words to tell you about this magnificent wonder of the world. I guess you’ll just have to trust me when I say that you should add it to your personal list of “100 Places to See before You Die”.

Our flight to Foz de Iguassu in southern Brazil was long but uneventful, which, given our travel karma, we have learned to celebrate. Forty students and adults comprised our companionable group, all of us looking forward to big doses of natural beauty, fun and relaxation. We were not disappointed. We explored the falls from both the Brazilian and the Argentinean sides via every conceivable mode of transportation including planes, trains, boats and trucks. Oh, and our feet. We tramped across metal catwalks hundreds of feet above the cascading water, getting up close and personal with the majesty and power of the falling, crystal river. Many of us added the adventures of rappelling, white water rafting, and canopy zip-lining on our free afternoon. Others used that time to swim, read, catch up on email or nap. SAS trips are notoriously overstuffed with activities and this schedule was a welcome change. We even began our days at the civilized hour of 9:00 am – imagine!

Our itinerary included a tour of the Itaipu Dam. Spanning the Parana River between Brazil and Paraguay, this efficient behemoth is the producer of the largest quantity of hydroelectric power in the world, although other structures are larger. It supplies Paraguay with 95% of its electricity. Because Paraguay owns half the river that forms its border with Brazil, it is entitled to half the energy produced by the power plant, which is actually more than it needs. The government of Paraguay worked out the arrangement so that Brazil put up all the construction money for the dam; Paraguay is slowly paying them back in excess electricity from its half. Sweet deal.

After months of intense global experiences, we all welcomed the refreshing and renewing change of pace of this trip. It was good to play tourist for awhile and just enjoy the sites. I got a reminder of my true identity as a traveler, however, during our trek by open truck through the subtropical rainforest. The young Argentinean woman who was our guide came up to me after the trip and asked the common question, “Where are you from?” I was careful to answer, “The United States”, not wanting to offend someone with equal claim to the title “American”.
“I saw you taking notes and I wondered,” she replied.
“Well, I’m a writer,” I said, “and I like to get things down on paper.”
She smiled and said, “It was so nice to see someone actually paying attention and caring enough about what I was saying to write it down.” I wish for this enthusiastic and knowledgeable young woman a future full of more travelers than tourists.

What I was writing was a note to myself about an image I wanted to share with you. Our guide explained the difference between a parasite, for example a strangler ficus vine, and an epiphyte, such as a philodendron. The former competes with the host plant, often eventually killing it. The epiphyte only needs the host plant for support, to get above the dark tangle of the jungle, up where there is light and nourishing oxygen. Both the host and the supported plant grow well in this healthy, symbiotic relationship. I immediately thought of the needs of the countries we have been visiting in the developing world. Citizens of the first world sometimes seem to feel threatened and dismayed by the vast and urgent needs of these emergent countries, when all they really need is some support – loans, technical assistance, professional exchanges. After centuries of colonialism and poverty, developing countries need help climbing out of their deficient conditions, a boost up into a fresh environment where they will then be able to nourish themselves. Together we will all be able to thrive.

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