ESPANA'S ESPECIAL TREASURES

High above the rooftops of Cadiz on the Atlantic coast of Spain, a tall, square tower holds a simple but magical box, the Camera Obscura. From inside a small, dark room at the top of the Torre Tavira, you can get a 360 degree view of the picturesque city below complete with people strolling and cars passing by. It’s just like being inside a huge camera. The light comes through an opening a story above, bounces off a mirror, then through a lens and finally onto a large white disk about six feet across. The guide can raise or lower the disc to bring objects into focus either in the foreground or the background. Everyone in our group waited eagerly as the guide rotated the mechanism which acted like a periscope peering out at the city. Finally, there she was, the MV Explorer, our home-away-from-home, snugly docked in the harbor.

Cadiz offered a number of charming sights and activities but my fellow Lifelong Learners, Hugh and Linda Straley, and I were eager to go exploring in southern Spain. My new friends from Seattle were not only quite companionable folks to travel with but they also both speak beautiful, fluent Spanish thanks to living for a few years in Panama. As wonderful as our travels were, by far the best part was forging a friendship with these two intelligent, compassionate and easy-going people. I really lucked out – good travel companions are a rare treasure.

Our itinerary took us via rented car to Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, Cordoba and Seville. Because of this region’s proximity to northern Africa and the Arabic rule from 711 AD to 1492, the Islamic influence is everywhere present and altogether fascinating. An intriguing example is the enormous Mezquita (mosque) in Cordoba, built in the 8th through the 10th century. Its deep rose and white arches spanning hundreds of columns contain a space that draws you in to explore and question. What you find at the heart of this amazing mosque is a gigantic, ornate, full-blown Catholic cathedral! Enormous gilded altar, rococo carved wooden choir, Gothic arches, side chapels and soaring domed roof – all of it plunked down in the middle of the magnificent Islamic house of worship. The juxtaposition was, to these eyes, more than jarring. It just felt wrong.

My new resolve, as I told you previously, is to get more comfortable with living with questions and the Mezquita presented me with my first opportunity. Why? As I overheard a guide say, “Why would you tear the center out of this unique, magnificent mosque and replace it with something we can see so many other places in the world?” What made the Catholic rulers in the 16th century need to put their building just there? It makes me think of the Temple in Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock, and also the children’s way of choosing who’s It by stacking fists one on top of another. I found myself asking an age-old question: Is it human nature to be dominant instead of additive and collaborative? Will that compulsion ever change?

Ok, I promised a lighter, fun-filled post this time so I’ll move on to the food. What could be more fun than tapas, delightful tortillas, numerous kinds of fresh fish and excellent Spanish wine? Of all the delicious dishes we indulged in, fellow foodie Hugh and I gave the highest marks to the cold almond soup at the parador in Ronda.

All over Spain, fortresses, convents, palaces and castles have been transformed by the government into hotels or paradors, from quite reasonable to decidedly lavish. The one in Ronda overlooks a spectacular river gorge and is connected by an ancient stone, impossibly tall bridge to the old town on the other side. We chose this spot for lunch on recommendation of our interport lecturer, David Geis, a UVA professor who is actually SIR David since we was knighted by King Juan Carlos for his passionate promotion of all things Spanish. He had delighted us all with hilarious and informative lectures, tips and anecdotes as we sailed to Spain. We were not disappointed. The set five course meal at the parador presented some spectacular food but the best selection by far was the first one, a cold almond soup rich with garlic, cream and butter - nectar of the gods!

The remaining Moorish influence visible in Spain was just a teaser for our next port: Morocco. I’m beyond thrilled finally to be going to this intriguing country about which I have long fantasized. With the Straley’s as my travel buddies again, I will be taking the train to Fez and spending three days there exploring around. The highlight promises to be the cooking class I’ve booked on the recommendation of a New York Times travel writer at a riad or sort of B&B in the heart of the medina, the old city. The chef has trained and worked at some of the best restaurants in Morocco and will lead us out to the souks or markets to buy the food first. We’ll cook together and then enjoy our meal. I’ll try to come away with recipes to share with you all. Some of my kids will remember Abiba, a talented Moroccan cook we had once in France. Hopefully I’ll leave Fez able to make some dishes that will evoke memories of her marvelous couscous.

Late update: Before I could get the above entry posted, it was announced that we’ve hit a glitch. Even thought the fuel barge was along side of the Explorer, we could not in fact bunker (take on fuel) in Gibraltar yesterday due to the bad weather and rough seas. We were supposed to be in Casablanca already this morning. As it is they have finally finished the process in thankfully calm water and we’re weighing anchor and heading south as I write. We’ve lost most of a day in Morocco which is a terrible shame but the “f” word on Semester at Sea is “flexibility” and this delay is just one more reason why. I’m going to try to make lemonade of the day by enjoying rare down time, playing with my photographs (and maybe even learning how to post them here) and meeting with my newly formed shipboard family. Please visit here again and read of my adventures in Morocco and more about shipboard life. As always, I adore your comments so please post your feedback, questions, or just a quick note to let me know you’re out there.